15 Dec. A long awaited hike and a new base near Seongsan Illchubong

It will be our first check out and trip to the Seongsan area. But first, there are lots of places to visit and eat. The plan is to bike, eat, see the haenyeo and then check in. With all the traveling, hopefully we can grab something delicious in the tourist town, some makgeoli post dinner drink which Pat has been dreaming of all these while. This means my IDP will come in handy.

But like most plans in winter, there is always a high chance of pulling out Plan B. Weather was pesky yesterday so we did a swap of programs. 

Hallasan opened the trails at 4.30am, much to my relief. We checked out from the lovely Regent Marine the Blue and hit the mountains. For some reasons, Naver took us via the western approach , via Mysterious Road to Eorimok Trail head.

The drive in the Hallasan area turned slushy and gradually slush became white powdery fresh snow. The roads were already cleared by the snow remover machines. We cheated by driving all the way up to the Hallasan office, shaving off 1 km from our hike.

Hallasan. Ahead is Eorimok trail office, right opposite the Eoseungsaengak visitor center and trail head

1.6km up Eoseungsaengak trail. We met so many of our countrymen on the way down.

Hallasan was like a winter wonderland. We parked in between 2 visitor centers (one for Eorimok trail, the other for Eoseungsaengak trail). After the very important photo taking ceremonies to announce to our friends we made it there (base), we don our crampons and extended out sticks.

Proud to say we made the first footprints on the trail for the day

Following Pat's footsteps

Hallasan summit across us

Beneath lies treacherous rocks, roots and boardwalk plants waiting to break the ankle

I was so right to choose the Eoseungaengak trail first. It was a 1.3km upward hike with steps from the word 'Go!' If we could not do it, we can forget about the rest of the trails.

If I thought I was fit since the10km marathon was just a week ago, I was so wrong. To my older self, I want to say this; never underestimate the mountain, esp when snow is involved. We had 5 layers of clothing, including scarves when we first started at the base, but half were removed and stowed away in the already full backpack at the second waymarker. I was like Mr Wolf; huffed and puffed up every snow covered step/rock. I literally had to breathe through my mouth because I did not have enough air !

First visitors of the day

Triumphant!

Euphoric but exhausted

Our hiking mascot

Jeju city below

Finally, we saw a clearing at the end of the tree lined path. The observation deck at last! Photo taking is a must at any summit or trig point. The snow covered trig point was wiped clean by Pat so that we could prove that we made it up at 1169m. We could see half of Jeju and the sea beyond. It was a scene splashed with sun. Snow flurries swirled but it was not a concern for that day because of good weather forecast

Descent was easy. Many people were already making their way up. I could hear my countrymen speaking, decked in fancy hiking clothes with no backpacks like a day out in the park. 

Back at the car, Pat could not find a way to pay for parking. The gantry opened and let us out. We would have to wait for the car rental bill to see if a bill of 1000 ￦ and service charge will arrive in the mail. 

We headed for Gwaneusa Temple, a place 'down the road' where one of our favorite kdrama was shot. The place was sprawling. Gwaneusa lent its name to the trail that leads to the summit (with registration with Hallasan authorities). The launch pad was nearby.

We grabbed lunch at the temple cafe. It was freshly cooked by the cashier. 10000 ￦ for each set meal, so 20000 ￦ in total. It was light and pretty to look at. Who would have known mushroom seaweed soup could taste so good?

We were ahead of schedule but nonetheless hit the road, eastbound to Seongsan, hoping for an early check in. Our 2nd base, Bomulson Pension, was where we would stay for 2 days. It was the cheapest hotel of the trip, 40000 ￦ (about SGD40) for each night. I opted for it because it was near the Seongsan Ilchubong. Bomulsom Pension is a bare bones hotel located in the back alley of a row of houses and among a couple of cabbage patches. It has ondol heating, great on a cold day. There is no demarkation of toilet bowl, shower and wash basin. My greatest annoyance?  The water for the shower takes forever to heat up and the water is scalding hot or icy cold at the slightest turn of the tap. On a happy note, it has a balcony that faces the sea, a cooking area where you can cook and look at the scenery at the same time. Cooking was out of my plan because I did not want to play house while on holiday.

We checked in, got properly appalled at the countryside style pension and went out to 'downtown' to Illchubong to cheer ourselves up.

Haenyeo doing harvest dance

Sunrise peak but not in the direction of the sunrise

Port in the background. Ferries to Udo anyone?

Seongsan Illchubong

The gate to the peak opens every morning at 7.30am. Since sunrise happens at 7.30am, it is impossible to see the sunrise immediately after buying the tickets. Whoever decided on the ticket office hours needs to be fed to the fishes.

We went to the free section to take some photos and recce a place for sunrise the next day. We caught a segment of the Haenyeo dance in the bay. Like any harvest dance, it was really lame to see the haenyeo tap the baskets in unison and went back to the hut instead of the sea for their catch.

We walked to the back of the peak, got bored and made our way back.  

Pat catnapped ,which I permitted. He had woken up at 5.30am  for the hike and the driving from the west to the east   wore him out as well.

Dinner time, we drove out to Chengun for a simple dinner. Pat had seafood hotpot, I preferred my new favorite (seaweed sea urchin soup). We had a grilled mackerel for good measure. Simple fare ( 50000 kwn) but every mouthful was fresh and tasted like they were out of the sea just a while ago.

Other than the country style Bomulseon pension, I declare everything today very good.

My travels today in the top right quadrant of Jeju